
No. 1 · Resin and smoke · Batch 14
FUMUS
Named for per fumum, “through smoke”, where the word perfume comes from. Frankincense tears and labdanum resin, with birch tar, the one material here made by burning.
- Top
- Elemi, Black pepper
- Heart
- Frankincense, Myrrh
- Base
- Labdanum, Benzoin, Birch tar
Not sure yet? All four in 2 ml for £22, taken off your first bottle.
On skin
Top · First minute
Elemi, Black pepper
Pepper and a bright, lemony resin.
Heart · First hour
Frankincense, Myrrh
Church incense, dry and warm.
Base · Next morning
Labdanum, Benzoin, Birch tar
Dark, sweet labdanum and a faint smoke on the wrist.
- Carries
- Arm’s length
- Best for
- Evenings, cold months
- Strength
- Eau de parfum
What it is made of
Frankincense trees start giving resin at eight to ten years old and are tapped two or three times a year; the last tapping gives the best tears. Labdanum is the sticky resin of rock rose, once combed out of the beards of goats that grazed on it. Birch tar comes from dry distillation, which is why it smells burnt.
People wearing it
I bought it in November and wore nothing else until March. People at work ask what the church smell is.
Ordered the discovery set first. Fumus was the one I kept reaching for, so the code went on a 100 ml.


